Hong Kong: A feast for my senses!

Three days in Asia's World City while in transit home for the holidays.  This multicultural gateway is a complete 180 from PNG, a sophisticated metropolis where culture is respected and cutting edge technology embraced.  Its vibrant, bustling, developed, everything that PNG is not.  It has superb infrastructure with efficent transport.  The leather seats and wood grain interior on the airport shuttle was a far cry from  Madang's PMV buses where the doors fall off!

Close to midnight I arrived at my 4 Star hotel  (less than US 100), but unlike Madang's empty dark streets, this city never sleeps!  The lights, the 360 degree harbor skyline, trendy night spots, night markets and street hustlers selling "genuine copy watches"  and "real copy handbags"...and windows without bars!  For the first time in months, I could walk around without feeling marred down with tension and fear. 

The first night I endulged in luxuries by taking a long, leisurely shower.  I stood there letting the water wash PNG from my body and mind.  Then I turned on the flatscreen and ordered room service from my fluffy bed!

The next morning I strolled the streets and popped into a coffee shop for an expresso and bagel..savoring each bite as I people watched from the cafe window front.  Appearances are evidently important, no tatty second hand clothes here.  These trendy, multicultural people hop in and out oft the subway and shops wearing the latest high end fashion.  Gucci suits, Coach bags, and knee high boots.  

Kowloon is a shoppers paradise.  From shopping centers boasting names such as Vivian Westwood, Prada, Tiffany to bargain markets selling packaged plastic bangles, chopsticks and silk bags.  Each shop I entered, I walked out wearing the new leaving behind the old for the trash! Every other store flashed neon lights with the latest high tech inovation. Nikon, Canon, Sony...my eyes were bulging from my head!  And obviously the hustlers could see "easy target" written clearly across my face.  Long story short, after hours of what I thought was bargaining, I found out that I was ripped completely off.  When I finally found my way back to the one of  hundreds of shops along Nathan Road, they would only refund 70% of my money! I left without my bargain Hong Kong electronics, but with a very expensive lesson learned.

The next day, in an attempt to avoid the endless choices of products and brands, I ventured out to Hong Kong Island.  Subway and tram to The Peak, Hong Kong's largest tourist attraction overlooking the entire city and Victoria Harbor.  The city was particularly buzzing with people and events for the 2009 Asian Games.  Museums, cultural dances, martial arts.  After a ferry across the harbor, I walked along the waterfront waiting for the worlds largest permanent light and sound show.  Each night at 8:00 over 40 buildings along the 360 degrees of harbor skyline is illuminated by a laser light show.  It was incredible!

Boasting the title of "Culinary capital of Asia" Hong Kong has thousands of resturants.  Chinese traditional dishes, Japanese sushi bars, Balinese and Indian cuisines.  (And of course a McDonalds and Starbucks on every corner) I particularly enjoyed the fresh sashimi and sushi...and Japanese beers and sake! 

Hong Kong has now become one of my favorite cities, a real feast for my senses!

Go Pinis-Pondering a goodbye to PNG

People frequently come and go from PNG.  Short term volunteers, long term volutneers, consultants, anthropology students, researchers, and the occasional, adventurous tourist.  With the holidays approaching and contracts ending, go pinis parties have booked the Madang social calendar.  Dinner at Edens and The Lodge, sports themed parties, and karaoke parties helped to bring normalacy to the disturbing events plaguing the town.  We shared our adventurous travel stories of various destinations across the globe.  And highly emotional stories of escaping Madang's crime and danger. After the attacks last week highlighted the unpredicable dangers of PNG, several ngos in Madang decided to pull out and even VSO is evacuating all Asian volunteers. The town is on curfew and all alcohol sales have been banned. 

The combination of the increased security risks and a recent shortlisting for a job in Cambodia leaves me pondering if my time here in PNG is finished.  Several months ago I submitted a general application to Handicap International, a ngo targeting persons with disabilities and eliminating extreme poverty.  Last week, I received an email stating I had been shortlisted for an Inclusive Education position, the same work I am doing here in PNG.  After two international phone interviews, things are looking positive for a job beginning January 2010. 

Things were moving quickly as I had my flight booked home for the holidays.  It hit me that there was a possibility I may get the job in Cambodia after I leave PNG and I may not return.  I only had a few days to wrap my head around this idea.  Packing. Goodbyes. 

This was not the first time I have had to pack my life into a bag with a few days notice.  In true 'Charlye fashion' I didn't give it much thought, and enjoyed my days, my friends and the beauty of the moment. 

My potentially 'last' day in Madang was one I will never forget.  Morning coffee on the veranda with Marleen and Jolanda overlooking the sea.  An afternoon boat ride to the beach house for food and cheers with the expat community of Madang.  That evening on the ride back to the mainland, we stopped for skinny dipping in phosphorescence.  This was one of the most amazing natural experiences of my life.  Swimming under the stars above the reefs surrounded by the emission of lights produced by the bioluminescent plankton was spectacular.  We took turns diving off the boat and watching with our snorkels as our bodies plunged through the water like a rocket in the sky.  We looked like comets shooting through a star filled sky.  Then we transformed into the most beautiful underwater, sparkling angels as we spread our arms and kicked our legs to the surface.  A fanstactic natural phenomenom!

My next adventure, Hong Kong.  Living in the moment, I am not thinking too much about the possibility of a real goodbye to PNG, a future in Cambodia or even hoildays in the States.  To the unknown again!

Is PNG meeting the Millennium Development Goal 2: Achieve Universal Primary Education?

The 2007 school census reported 674,169 school-aged children are out of school in PNG. But why? PNG faces challenges beyond that of other poorer countries of Asia and Africa. 85% of the population lives in rural areas where the road to school for children is extraordinary: they climb mountains, cross rivers, and paddle canoes. PNG children come from diverse communities with over 800 cultures and languages.

Education Department officials, in collaboration with partners and donors, have developed a Plan to realize its international commitments such as the Convention on the Rights of the Child, Education for All and Millennium Development Goals. This Plan is titled ‘Achieving Universal Education for a Better Future.’

Within the PNG context, the Plan has three goals for achieving Universal Basic Education as outlined in Papua New Guinea Universal Basic Education Plan 2010-2019 (National Executive Council, July 2009).

1) Access: All children should enter school at a specific age- they should enter elementary prep at the age of 6 years.

2) Retention: All children should complete the elementary and primary cycles of education that constitute basic education- this is nine years of basic education.

3) Quality: All children should reach a required standard of literacy and numeracy at the end of their years of education.

PNG is seeking a breakthrough in universal basic education by abolishing school fees for elementary in 2010. But ending school fees is no magic wand. The surge in enrolment after eliminating school fees brings immense challenges to the entire learning infrastructure, from the physical building, to the class size, to the teachers.

It is expected the Plan will address issues such as expansion of school infrastructure, pre and in-service teacher training, advocacy and awareness raising, water and sanitation facilities in all schools and provisions for remote and overcrowded schools.

But abolishing school fees and building classrooms is not enough. We must build inclusive schools that respect diversity and encourage the participation of all children including street children, girls, children with disabilities, those from remote areas, and children affected by HIV/AIDS.

Much remains to be done in order for PNG to deliver on the global promise to get all children quality primary education by 2015. The success of this Plan will depend on the support and commitment of communities, parents, schools, teachers, churches, ngos, and all levels of government. We all have an important role to play to ensure a happy and healthy future for PNG children.

Rapes and Attacks Grip Madang!

In the 18 months I have been in Madang, I have witnessed many disturbing and violent acts.  PNG is known for its tribal fighting, domestic violence, compensation, gender based violence, gang rapes, and armed robberies. I have myself been a victim as well as many of my friends, both National and Expatriates.  Yes, violence occurs across the globe, but violence in PNG in more prevalent and certainly more volatile. Being a volunteer in development, an optimist, and a public blogger, I have tried my best to describe PNG, its culture and people, in a positive and diplomatic manner. 

Today, however, I cannot. I can only tell the truth.  A truth that I have been holding back as not to worry my friends and family at home.  A truth that is so disturbing that all readers should be warned of the content, which may only be suitable for....well, actually no one, regardless of age, sex or mental stability, should ever have to read of a truth so unsettling.

Last night five men broke into a house of an elderly expat who has spent most of her life in PNG.  They must have known her husband was out of the Country and took this opportunity to hold her hostage in her own house.  The gang tied her up, bashed her and raped her.  The neighbors notified the police, however, when they finally arrived, the men had fled. 

A pure act of animal violence!

My heart pours out to this strong and committed woman, who has dedicated her life to the people of Papua New Guinea.  She is known by most as 'the mother of Madang' for her community service with womens groups, the Red Cross and the centre for persons with disabilities.

Her attack was one of the 8 reported rapes here in Madang in the last 4 days!  This week alone there have been armed hold ups along the roads going in and out of town, a young boy was shot when his family could not give the man K1 (less than 33 cents), and two women were hacked to death while walking to the market to sell thier vegetables. 

The Madang community is in an uproar!  Myself included.  What response will the government provide? Obviously there is complete chaos with the law and order situation in Madang town. 

A Buzz in the Air

For nearly 40 minutes my mouth hung open in awe. I didn’t know whether to hold on to my seat or jump from the window with the over whelming since of vertigo. Either way, my recent helicopter ride from the mountainous terrains of the PNG Highlands, through the vast Ramu Valley and rivers to Madang’s pristine coastline, was incredible.

Making friends with the pilots who live two doors down from our house on Coronation Drive has its advantages. I was in Kundiawa for an education conference and Jolanda had taken advantage of the VSO vehicle driving through Goroka to climb Mt. Oto before the end of her placement. Neither of us was looking forward to the 6 hour, body-jarring drive back to Madang. Lucky for us, one of the pilots was on a flight from Lae to Madang and felt sorry for us poor volunteers and decided to “scoop us up.” Just like that, like it was no big deal. Jolanda and I couldn’t believe this was happening. What were we going to tell the other volunteers? “Oh sorry we aren’t going to be riding back with you guys. We have another ride with a friend who is picking us up in his helicopter.” That’s exactly what we said before their eyes turned green with envy.

The pilot's phone call to discuss the details was short. How was the weather and cloud coverage? Where was the airport in relation to the town? He had never flown to Goroka. I told him the airport was in the center of town and we agreed to meet in an hour. I finished my hotel breakfast of salmon and eggs (I know, hard volunteer life) and headed to the art market to buy a beautiful helicopter painting I had my eye on as a thank you gift. The VSO Land Cruiser dropped us off at the Air Nuigini airport. But after fighting the crowds of passengers and speaking to the armed guard through a partially opened door, we were told that we needed to go to Pacific Helicopter for heli landings. Great. Where was Pacific? How long would it take us to walk? Is it a safe area? The guard pointed us in the direction of Pacific but we remained uncertain of where the helicopter was going to land. We started walking and a woman pulled up beside us offering us a ride because she said it was an unsafe area to be walking. We jumped in her car and she drove us to Pacific.

The ladies in the Pacific reception gave us a warm welcome leading us into an air-conditioned lounge with fluffy couches. This impromptu “scoop up” was getting a bit formal…visitor tags, signing a log book, call names. Lucky I heard the buzz of the helicopter and we were off before we knew it!

The pilot quickly pointed out a few buttons and helped to fasten our belts and adjust our headsets. It was hard to hear him over the blades, but I later learned that the button wasn’t to eject the seat but to talk through the radio!

Watching the terrain change so quickly from the “broccoli” covered mountains, to the rivers and valleys, to the coconut lined coast was incredible. The highlands were very remote with the occasional cluster of villages with round huts and patchwork gardens. It was amazing to feel the cool breeze through the windows and when we flew through bits of cloud coverage I remember thinking…I am literally in the clouds! When we came to the Ramu Valley, the pilot knew we would be in for an adventure.  We decided to get a bit lower and follow the river. It was amazing to observe life from this perspective. The children were jumping and splashing full of excitement of seeing the helicopter. Men were fishing and women washing clothes and dishes, but all looked up to wave.  Soon the air in the cabin was warmer and the coast came into view. 

Before we knew it, we were back in Madang!  A big thanks to our pilot friends for an amazing view of PNG!

Tip about Buai

Never chew buai after a few beers, coctails, and/or wine!

I am assuming this experienced buai chewer already knew this!

Because I am not feeling particularly well today...I'll do a cut and paste about my first buai experience in PNG....today I can hardly look at or even smell buai.  Last night may have been my last buai experience!

Buai is a huge part of PNG culture and I have wanted to try it since my arrival. Every few feet along the roads there are stands selling buai and tobacco rolled in yesterday’s copy of the National Courier. Just outside my apartment complex, my neighbors have a buai stand and have offered me buai on many occasions.  Due to fear of my teeth being permanently stained red I have politely declined. Eventually, I caved to curiosity and had a go at this PNG tradition. Once I chewed through the outer shell, the betel nut (buai) was jaw clenching, eye watering bitter. My mouth began to salivate and the spitting began. Some people choose to chew buai without the mustard plant (daka) and lime which provides the “buzz” and the blood red color. I wanted the full experience. Once I chewed the buai into a ball I dipped the mustard stem in the lime, which is taken from coral. Once I began to chew the 3 ingredients together, my teeth, lips and tongue turned scarlet. My mouth tingled and grew hot. Although my entire mouth was filled with saliva, it felt very dry. I didn't feel the notorius buzz that buai chewers seek; however I was quite the entertainment for those walking past. They laughed at me spitting and trying to see my crimson tongue. 

Buai is the green nut you see, daka is the mustard stem, and that's the lime in the plastic bag..not to be confused with anything else!

Karkar Volcano Erupted!

An eruption occurred at Karkar volcano at 6:39 pm on 25th November 2009. The eruption plume reached a height of 45,000 ft. A magnitude 5.1 earthquake hit 90 km SSE of Karkar volcano 7.5 hours before the eruption.

Some of you may remeber that I climbed this volcano earlier this year ( I even wrote a nice little blog about it).  I was sitting on my couch reading the glossy magazines Marleen brought back from Hanoi when I felt the earthquake, but I thought it was just one of the many that I feel here in PNG.